|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Byblos is
one of the top contenders for the
"oldest continuously inhabited
city" award. According to Phoenician tradition it was founded by the
God El, and even the Phoenicians considered it a city of great antiquity. Although its beginnings are lost in time, modern scholars say the site of
Byblos goes back at least 7,000 years.
Ironically, the words "Byblos"
and "Phoenicia" would not have been recognized by the city’s
early inhabitants. For several thousand years it was called "Gubla"
and later "Gebal," while the term "Canaan" was applied
to the coast in general.
It was the Greeks, some time after 1200 B.C., who
gave us the name "Phoenicia," referring to the coastal area. And
they called the city "Byblos"
(papyrus" in Greek),
because this commercial center was important in the papyrus trade. |
|
The Souk |
|
|
|
Today Byblos (Jbeil in Arabic) on the coast 37 kilometers north of Beirut, is a
prosperous place with glass-fronted office buildings and crowded streets.
But within the old town, medieval Arab and Crusader remains are continuous
reminders of the past. Nearby are the extensive excavations that make
Byblos one of the most important archaeological sites in the area. |
|
Roman theater built near the
sea |
|
|
|
History
About 7,000 years ago a small Neolithic fishing
community settled along the shore and several of their monocellular huts
with crushed limed stone floors can be seen on the site. Many tools and
weapons of this stone age period have been found as well.
The Chalcolithic Period (4,000-3,000 B.C.) saw a
continuation of the same way of life, but brought with it new burial
customs where the deceased were laid in large pottery jars and buried with
their earthly possessions.
By the beginning of the Early Bronze Age (about 3000
B.C.). Canaanite Byblos had developed into the most important timber
shipping center on the eastern Mediterranean and ties with Egypt were very
close. The pharaohs of the Old Kindgom needed the cedar and other wood for
shipbuilding, tomb construction and funerary ritual. In return, Egypt sent
gold, alabaster, papyrus rope and linen. Thus began a period of
prosperity, wealth and intense activity. |
Several
centuries later Amorite tribes from the desert overran the coastal region
and set fire to Byblos. But once the Amorites had settled in, the city was
rebuilt and Egypt again began to send costly gifts to Byblos. Treasures
from the royal tombs of Byblos show the great wealth that flooded the
city.
Around 1200 B.C. a wave of the so called "Sea
Peoples" from the north spread to the eastern Mediterranean, and some
settled on the southern coast of Canaan. These seafarers probably
contributed their skills to maritime society we know |
|
Detail of the Sarcophagus
of Ahiram, 13th century B.C (National Museum of Beirut) |
today
as Phoenicia.
About this same time the scribes of Byblos developed an
alphabetic phonetic script, the precursor of our modern alphabet. By 800
B.C., it had traveled to Greece, changing forever the way man
communicated. the earliest form of the Phoenician alphabet found to date
is the inscription on the sarcophagus of King Ahiram of Byblos.
Throughout the first millennium B.C., Byblos continued
to benefit from trade in spite of Assyrian and Babylonian encroachments.
Then came the Persians who held sway from 550-330 B.C. The remains of a
fortress outside the Early Bronze Age city walls from this period show
that Byblos was a strategic part of the Persian defense system in the
eastern Mediterranean. |
|
|
|
Bronze figurines
covered
in gold from the temple of Obelisks
(National Museum of Beirut) |
|
After
conquest by Alexander the Great, Byblos was rapidly hellenized and
Greek became the language of the local intelligentsia. During this
Hellenistic Period (330-64 B.C.), residents of Byblos adopted Greek
customs and culture. Both the Greek language and culture persisted
throughout the Roman era which was to come.
In the first century B.C. the Romans under Pompey took over Byblos
and |
other
Phoenician cities, ruling them from 64 B.C. to 395 A.D. In Byblos
they built large temples, baths and other public buildings as well
as a street bordered by a colonnade that surrounded the city.
There are few remains of the Byzantine Period
(395-637 A.D.) in Byblos, partly because construction was of soft
sandstone and generally of poor quality.
Byzantine stones were also quarried for later buildings. During this
era the city
became the see of a Christian bishopric. |
|
Baptistery of the
Crusader church
of St. John |
|
Under
Arab rule beginning 637 A.D. Byblos was generally peaceful but
it had declined in importance over the centuries and archeological
evidence from this period is fragmentary.
In 1104 Byblos fell to the Crusaders who came
upon large stones and granite columns of the Roman buildings and
used them for their castle and moat. With the departure of the
Crusaders, Byblos continued under Mamluke and Ottoman rule as a
small fishing town, and its antiques remains were gradually covered
with dust. |
Back
to top |
Excavations
Before Byblos was excavated, the ruins of
successive cities had formed a mound about 12 meters high covered
with houses and gardens. The ancient site was rediscovered in 1860
by the French writer Ernest Renan, who made a survey of the area. In
1921-1924 Pierre Montet, a French Egyptologist, began excavations
which confirmed trade relations between Byblos and ancient Egypt.
Maurice Dunand began his work in Byblos in 1925 and continued with
various campaigns until 1975. |
|
|
|
|
The Crusader Castle |
|
Byblos Today
A thriving modern town with an ancient heart, Byblos is a mix of
sophistication and tradition. The old harbor is sheltered from the sea by
a rocky headland. Nearby are the excavated remains of the ancient city,
the Crusader castle and church and the old market area.
For a real taste
of Byblos, stroll through the streets and byways.
This part of town is a
collection of old walls (some medieval) overlapping properties and
intriguing |
half-ruins. Don't hesitate to explore. Should you happen to
intrude on someone's property the hospitable townspeople will be pleased
to show you around.
The area of excavations is surrounded by a wall with
the entrance at the Crusader castle. To get a good view of this large,
somewhat complex site, either climb to
the top of castle or walk around
the periphery from outside the wall to identify
the major monuments.
After visiting the archeological site, a quick
and entertaining introduction to Lebanon's past can be found at the
Wax Museum near the castle. The wax figures illustrate scenes from
the history and rural life of the country. There is a modest
entrance fee.
With its many restaurants, snack bars, souvenir
shops and hotels, Byblos is well prepared to welcome tourists. |
|
|
|
|
If you
have time
Out of old Byblos and into the town's higher elevations in the
foothills are a number of very old churches such as the catacomb-like Mar
Nohra cut from rock and the Mar Semaan chapel.
Just north of Byblos,
Amchit sits on the coast and climbs briefly up the lower elevations of Mt.
Lebanon. This town has the country's only organized campsite, a pleasant,
clean place with attractive beaches available to campers. The town is well
known for its lovely traditional houses. Among others, there is the home
of the French writer Ernest Renan who lived in Amchit in the 19th
century. |
|
The Harbor of Byblos |
Nahr Ibrahim, 6 kilometers south of Byblos. This valley of the
ancient Adonis River is one of the most wild and beautiful in Lebanon. The
road leads to the source at Afqa high in the mountains, where you will
find the ruins of the great temple of Aphrodite-Venus in front of the
cave. |
|
|
|
|
VISIT
OTHER CITIES
(BEIRUT
- JEITA GROTTO - TRIPOLI
- SIDON - ZAHLÉ - BAALBECK)
(THE CEDARS - TYRE - BEITEDDINE
- AANJAR) |
|
|
|
EGYPT - SYRIA - JORDAN
|
|
|
|
Back
to MiddleEast.com |