Foreign traveller, you who only pass through this land, halt for a moment to contemplate the setting sun which sets alight the temples, or the moon which flitters across ghostly ruins: it is an experience not to be missed.

Although Sbeitla is one of the best preserved sites in Tunisia, its history is little known. Some signs, such as the discovery of Punic stele and the presence of megaliths in the area, indicate that life had come early to the region, though there is no evidence of any sort of urban life prior to the arrival of the Romans. As far as is known the steppes had been inhabited only by nomadic tribes until the Third Augustan Legion established a garrison at Ammaedara. After the revolt led by the Berber Chief Tacfarinas, the region was first pacified and then developed by the Emperor Vespasien and his sons. At the same time Ammaedara was promoted to the rank of colony and other towns in the region were created or developed.
Some rare inscriptions discovered in recent years suggest that the city was the subject of classic administrative development in the Roman Province of Ifriqiya. The expansion of the olive oil industry [the climate was perfect for the production of olives, the staple diet of Rome's legions] ensured the prosperity of the town from the second century B.C., and provided the finance for the construction of a splendid forum. This prosperity would seen to have continued during the 3rd and 4th centuries, even though this was a period of decline the approval of the Emperors to establish the bishoric in Sbeitla, which, according to chroniclers of that era, was captured and pillaged. It would seem that the town's fortunes declined after these events, and continued to vegetate until the whole of Tunisia was finally conquered by the Arabs.
During the centuries which followed the conquest urban life in Sbeitla deteriorated to such an extent that the land eventually returned to its nomadic origins.

The Antonine Gateway

The gateway to the Forum can be dated [138-161 A.D.] thanks to an inscription which refers to the Emperor Antonius Pious and his two adopted sons, Marcus Aurelius [the future Emperor and philosopher] and Licius Verus. The gateway, built in the style of an arch of triumph, forms part of the ancient walls, though of a lesser thickness.

The Forum

This is a vast, almost square, esplanade paved with stone slabs; it is surrounded by a wall against which stand halls or large rooms [each fronted by a covered portico supported by colonnades], though the use to which these were put has never been clearly established. Over the centuries the square was enlarged and the walls restored several times.

The Three Temples

Although there is no inscription to indicate to whom they were dedicated, it is generally assumed that this was a Capitol dedicated to the three divinities of the official Roman Pantheon, Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. Instead of building a single temple divided into three chapels or niches [as, for example, one finds at Dougga], the builders at Sbeitla conceived a far more grandiose project for their town and built a temple for each divinity. It was something which, to our knowledge [and given the cost of the project], was only attempted once elsewhere. To give unity to the ensemble the central temple was fronted by a tribune without steps, and one acceded to the central temple through the two lateral temples; one can easily imagine the scared processions moving from each extremity of the forum and symmetrically converging on the central temple, which was more opulently decorated and adorned than the other two.

The Church of Bellator

As is often the case on ancient sites, this church was erected on a building dating from an earlier period. Modest enough in its proportions and decorations, it has two apses and a baptistery converted into a chapel dedicated to the Catholic Bishop Jucundus, who lived here in the early fifth century and, it is generally believed, was martyred by the Arian Vandals.

The Church of Vitalis

Immediately adjacent to the Church of Bellator is another, larger, Catholic Basilica, again with two apses. Behind one of these is a baptistery decorated with mosaics.

The Church of Servus the Priest

This was built in the courtyard of an ancient pagan sanctuary, while the temple itself harbours the baptistery. It is possible that this was the Donatist Cathedral or, in any event, that of some other non-Catholic sect.

Fountains

Sbeitla has three public fountains dating from the 4th century. The best of these is situated close to the Forum; the basin of the fountain is enclosed at the back and on each side by a colonnade. The second fountain adjoins the Church of Servus and the third [which was converted into a dwelling at some time during the dark ages] is on the road which leads to the amphitheatre.

The Theatre

Even though the theatre is in a poor state of preservation it is worth a detour, as much for its picturesque location as anything else, since it stands on the Oued Sbeitla ravine. The tiers are in a state of ruin but the orchestra pit is still clearly visible, as are some of the colonnades around the stage, which drops away towards the ravine. Fine view of the escarpments of the oued, which is dry for most of the year, but which can become a raging torrent.

The Main Baths

These were built close to the theatre. They have nothing of the symmetry one usually expects to find. There are two caldaria, identifiable by the hypocaust below the floors, though the two rooms are not on the same level nor on the same axis. The disposition of the frigidaria, too, irregular, and it is obvious that the building was altered at some time. Some of the rooms are decorated with colourful mosaics.

The Small Baths

These are situated just to the north of the Church of Servus. Considerably smaller than the main baths they have fallen into a poor state of preservation.

The Amphitheatre

Though poorly preserved, they have not yet been fully excavated. The former inhabitants of Ifriqiya, great lovers of the games in the arena, reinforced the building with stone - some of which bears inscriptions - taken from the forum. It is possible that this amphitheatre, too, served as an improvised refuge and fortress.

The Forts

During the Byzantine period a series of small forts, intended to serve as shelters for the population, were built along the road which leads to the arch of triumph built in honour of the Terarchy.
They consist of a walled door less enclosure, the only access to which was by ladder. The interior was divided into rooms, and there was a well to ensure adequate supplies of water during a siege.

The Arch of Triumph to the Tetrarchy

An imposing mass, part of which consists of baldaquins supported by columns. The decor is quite sumptuous and the arch itself somewhat irregular. It was built in honour of the four Emperors (the Tetrarchate) who jointly ruled the Empire around 300 A.D., just prior, that is, to the reign of Constantine the Great.

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